Engine bay tidy up, Part 2

In part one we removed as much as we could from the engine bay and the engine itself, so this time we are going to make everything look good as new before replacing it.

With the ancillaries off the engine there should be plenty of room around it give the engine compartment your attention. After removing any thick oily deposits you need to get the metalwork as clean as possible. Years of exposure to fumes and heat usually leave the paintwork decidedly shabby. Get one of the proprietary engine cleaners, and give the whole area a good soaking.

I find the moose type alloy wheel cleaners are very good at dissolving baked on grime. If cleaning alone brings the paintwork up well leave well alone, otherwise you need to get some paint of the correct body colour. If you have access to spray equipment, Mask off the outer body, the engine, wiring loom etc. and spray it in the same way as you would the rest of the body. Preparation can be difficult because of all the awkward corners and shapes, but is worth the effort. If you are using spray cans, the same applies. You can now get them made up to match virtually any colour. Don't forget to paint the underside of the bonnet.

While the paint is hardening, let's start on the engine components. You should have had the exhaust manifold sand blasted, to get rid of all the rust, but it is also likely to be badly pitted. Go over these areas with an angle grinder fitted with a 36 grit sanding disc, and get rid of as much pitting as you can. You may need a round file to get into some of the awkward corners. You can now spray the manifold with high temperature paint. Stick to black, by the way a bright pink or yellow exhaust system won't impress anybody. If you really feel like splashing out you can get the manifold ceramic coated.

Replace the manifold with a new gasket and either brass, or stainless nuts and spring washers. If the exhaust system is in really good condition, it too can be blasted and painted with the VHT paint.

Inlet manifolds don't get so hot, so normal engine paint will usually do on these. Aluminium manifolds come up beautifully with a brass bristled rotary wire brush. You may need a selection of these to get into all the nooks and crannies. Any areas that are to be polished should first be rubbed down with 600s wet and dry paper then polished with Solvol Autosol. I find a brass bristled brush like they sell for suede shoes works wonders on aluminium.

Actually vapour blasting is the best treatment for aluminium castings, and brings them up like new. Try Steve Smethurst on 0161 7361718. If you don't get the carb. castings vapour blasted, spend a few happy hours with a selection of fine wire brushes and Solvol Autosol.

Carbs generally were not highly polished so a matt finish will do. The exception is the top of SUs, which were usually polished. Re-assemble the carbs with all the screws and brackets either new or re-plated, and while you are at it get an overhaul kit of gaskets and seals.

Dynamos and starter motors often just get a coat of matt black paint, but look much better if you take a bit more effort. The end plates are usually aluminium, and will respond well to the rotary wire brush treatment. Don't polish them though, again a matt finish will do. Remove any paint from the bodies, then mask off the terminals and end plates. Spray with red oxide primer, then finish with black Japlac spray. Finally clean up the brass terminals and re-fit. Fit a new fan belt, they only cost a few quid, and you can keep the old one as a spare.

Some cars have crackle finish cam covers. You can buy this in spray cans, and sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't, getting the temperature right seams to be the key. Alternatively you can get it done professionally. Try Powder Coatings, at Radcliffe, Lancs on 0161 723 4713. All nuts and bolts should be plated as original, which was usually bright zinc with a gold passivated finish. Only use chrome where it was used originally such as on Jaguar heads and cam covers.

Other small items such as relay boxes should also be plated. These usually have a terminal plate made of brown Tufnol, which will sometimes clean up OK. If it doesn't, give it a coat of clear varnish. You can't get the terminals re-plated but a carefully applied coat of silver or pale gold paint to match the plating will fool anybody. Make sure you scrape it off under the wiring connections. Most wiring looms are wrapped in black vinyl tape, in which case re-do this, over the top of the old insulation. Make sure you use proper loom tape, not insulation tape.

Clean up the distributor, and if the leads are looking a bit tired make up new ones, with nice shiny new plug caps, and a new set of spark plugs. Again resist the urge to fit bright pink plug leads. Black or red will do nicely.

Finally, take the radiator to your local radiator repair shop. They usually have a pickling tank to get rid of all the old paint, dirt and surface corrosion. Ask them to pressure test it and flush it out while they are at it. If there are any dents in the top tank they should be able to remove it and push these out or fit a new one. Whatever you do don't let them paint it, they use some nasty stuff that is impossible to paint over. When you get the radiator home first clean off any excess solder, then give it several coats of primer. Finish off with a spray can of Japlac black. DO NOT LEAVE THE HEADER TANK IN POLISHED BRASS.

Re-fit the radiator on new mounting rubbers and new hoses. If you can't get the exact hoses, take the old ones down to your local accessory shop, and get the nearest match. They usually have something that's near enough. Don't fit convoluted hose, it looks crap.

You can now re-fit the bonnet, but leave it open so you can admire your handiwork.Your engine bay should by now be looking pretty good, and instead of feeling embarrassed when people ask you to open the bonnet you'll be opening it before they ask.